Mnage maison, $4.50 at Boucherie Atlantique
This European delicatessen celebrates its 50th anniversary this week. Originally from Germany’s Black Forest, Wolfgang and Herta Lustig founded the business in 1962, the year they were married. It originally occupied horse stables on this same corner of Cte des Neiges, eventually expanding to its current setup. Still family run, it’s a hot house of all things Old World, from meats, charcuterie and smoked salmon, to breads and imported sweets, and even hot meals (the schnitzel looked gr tiffany jewellery eat). The butcher counter makes a range of sandwiches, including a sweet, creamy, smoky ham salad. The mixed meat option they refer to as “mnage maison” in German, you would say gemischten Brtchen, son and Austrian trained master butcher Werner Lustig told me is a sampling of what they do so well.
The spread: A choice of three housemade deli meats (B) from the tiffany jewellery display case are weighed for a total of 75 g. Lustig is proud of the meatloaf, made with veal (or sometimes veal and beef or pork), served in square edged slices studded with Madagascar green peppercorns. Rounds of garlic sausage contain real garlic, noticeably so. Pale folds of finely textured Pariser would otherwise be known as baloney, except that commercial baloney has got a bad rap. The term Pariser came through Hungarian customers, and it has another meaning in German (the guys at the counter would only snicker so I had to look it up let’s say it’s a different kind of sausage casing). The rest (C)is lettuce, tomato, mild mannered Canadian Swiss cheese and German mustard. Freshly assembled, the elements are effective together. The coolness of thin, tender, well seasoned meats and the alternating crustiness/softness of the bread create an excellent deli meat sandwich.
The secret: It’s holiday season at Atlantique, and even the Grinch would be swept up in the array of festive merchandise. I left with a stllen fruit cake under my arm, puffy chocolate dipped Bahlsen gingerbread cookies, and bags of m tiffany jewellery arzipan confections. For home feasting, they also prepare Scandinavian style pickled hams for cooking, as well as duck, turkey and goose.